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SEWING MACHINE.

No. 406,431. Patented my 9, 1889.

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(No Model.) l5`Sheer.s -Shee'u 4 P. A. DARRACQ.

SEWING MACHINE.

No. 406,431. Patented .Jvuly 9, 1889.

(No Model.) '5 Sheets-Sheet 6.

P. A. DARRAGQ. SEWING MAGHINB.

No. 406,431. Patented July 9, 1889KL Q N. PLrERs. Pmvmmgupher. washington D. l;

`UNITED STATES PATENT OEEicE.v

PIERRE ALEXANDRE DARRACQ, OF LE PRE ST. JrERVAlS, FRANCE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

ljsrincrrrcneurrorr forming part of Letters Patent Iva-106,431, dated my 9, 1889.

Application filed October 14, 1887. Serial No. 252,341. (No model.) Patented in France February 22, 1887, No. 181,742, and in l England August 22, 1887, No. 11,446.

To @ZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, PIERRE ALEXANDRE DARRACQ,mechanical engineer, a citizen of the Republic of France, residing at Le Pr St. Gervais, in the Republic of France, have invented a new and useful Improved Sewing- Machine, of which the following is a specification, which invention is patented in France February 22,1887,No. 181,742, and in England August 22, 1887, No. 11,446.

The object of this invention is to provide machinery for producing the fan-like arrangement of stitches which occurs in the manufacture of corsets, the object of which is to secure the ends of the whalebones or stays in the pockets wherein they are usually. inserted and impart an ornamental appearance to the corset, the stitches on both the right and left of the corset being executed mechanically and automatically.

My machine consists of a sewing-machine altered to suit the proposed purpose. It comprises all the usual parts existing in sewingmachines, and is provided in addition with special mechanical arrangements for effecting the displacement of the corset in va longitudinal and transverse direction either Vto the right or left in su'chmanner that the needle descends at suitableplaces, and'that the machine shall' stop at the completion of each course of fan-sewing.

In the annexed drawings, Figure 1 represents, on an enlarged scale, a diagram of t-he4 mechanical fan-sewing produced by my inachine to the right. Fig. 1bis is a similar diagram, showing the sewing' on the left. Fig. 2 is a view of the machine in front elevation and partly in section, in order to show the sewing mechanism more clearly, also the management of the thread and the presserfoot. Fig. 3 is a partial end view of Fig. 2, showing the presser-foot more clearly. Fig. 4 is a detail in plan of the presser-foot. Fig. 5 is a detail in plan of the shuttle-holder. Fig. 6 is a general plan view of the under side of the machine, representing specially the driving mechanism for producing the longitudinal and transverse movements of the corset. Fig. 7 is a transverse section of Fig. 6, taken through the line A B. Fig. 7bis is a detached-view showing the stop-disk 68.- Fig.

.fan to make a second stitch (2.)

8 is a longitudinal section taken through the line C D, Fig. G. Fig. 9 is a transverse section of Fig. 6, taken through the line E F. Fig. 10 is an elevation of Fig. 6, looking at the end X. Fig. 11 is a detail View in plan of the repeating-cam for producing the variable longitudinal movements of the corset. Fig. 12 is an enlarged elevation of the mechanism by which longitudinal movements are imparted to the feeder-slide, parts being in section. Fig. 13 is au inverted plan view of -the parts shown in Fig. l2, parts being in section. Fig.^14i's a sectional View on the line 14 14, Fig. 12. Fig.'15 is an enlarged sectional elevation of the parts which impart' lateral movements to the feeder-slide. Figs. 16 and 17 are inverted plan views of the parts shown in Fig. 15, showing them in different positions.`

The whole of the figures have been simplified as much as possible for the purpose of facilitating the comprehension thereof.

Many of the parts enter into the ordinary construction of sewing-machines-viz., the

- cast-metal table 1, the arm 2, the driving-shaft 3, the shuttle-carrier 4, the shuttle 5, the cam 6, operating the crank-rod '7g-Working the shaft 8, communicating by the Vcrank 9, the movement of this needle-carrier 10 carrying the needle 11. All these parts -exist in some form or other in sewing-machines, and serve to produce the ordinary sewing-stitch with two threads.

In order to combine the mechanism for right and left fan-sewing, as represented in Figs. 1 and 1b, I have adopted the following dispositions: a a represent the ends of the whalebones, which require to be confined by the said fan-sewing working to the right .in Fig. 1 and to the left in Fig. 1Mb'. I place the corset in position upon'the machine to make the stitch number 1. The corset is moved mechanically longitudinally of the It is then moved laterally a distance equal to the thickness of the thread and longitudinally to make athird stitch, (3,) followed by a longitudinal movement to make a fourth stitch (4.) Again moved transversely and longitudinally for the stitch 5, and so on until the twenty-fourth stitch, it' the fan is' tole IOO ' gitudinal movements must vary constantly in dimension in a considerable proportion, the

V greatest movement being between stitches 1 and 2, and the least between stitches 23 and 24. Moreover, the stitches which are parallel to the side of the whalebone have to be in a straight line, while those which confine the end thereof haye to be arranged in an arc of a circle or in a form corresponding with the end of the bone. Lastly, the machine must stop as soon as the fan-stitch is completed. To effect the longitudinal movements-that is to say, those which produce the longitudinal stitches-I make use of a cam 12, represented in plan,

Fig. 1l. This cam consists of a plate 12, in which is formed a cam-groove Y, which plate is arranged beneath the working bed or table of the machine upon a movable carriage, (referred to hereinafter,) and is secured by a screw :14 to a worm-wheel 13, from which it receives a slow rotary mot-ion. The wormwheel 13 is driven by a worm 15 splined upon the driving-shaft 3, so that it may slide upon this shaft as it is moved longitudinally thereof with the carriage 51', to which it is connected by `a fork 15 projecting from the said carriage and engaging a groove formed in the hub of the said worm.

The wheel 13 is mounted upon a vertical axis 13 carried by the movingjcarriage 5l mounted underneath the table of the machine. A roller 1G fixed at the extremity of an oscillatorylever 17 mounted on an axis 13 is guided in the irregular cam-groove Y in the camplate 12 and transmits irregular movements of oscillation to the said lever corresponding to t-he sinuosities of the cam-groove, which the roller 1G follows constantly. The lever 17 is connected by a link 19 to the feeder slide or frame 2021, which serves, as usual, to carry forward the material, and which is guided by guides 22, which are themselves capable of sliding transverselyin other guides 23 placed underneath the table of the machine. From this arrangement it results that the corset, carried forward bythe feeders 24 upon which it is placed, Awill undergo the irregular longitudinal movem entin the direction of theV guide 21. of the feeder under the effect of the rotary motion of the driving-shaft Since it is desirable to vary the amplitude of vibra-tions of the free end of the lever 17, I have devised means whereby the position of the fulcrum or pivotal support of the said lever may be shifted to a limited extent between its ends. For this purpose the `sleeve 27, which forms the axis of oscillation or ful` crum of the lever, passes through a slot formed therefor in the lever and carries a slotted plate 25 adapted to be secured to the lever 17 by a screw 26, thus forming a means for securing the pivotal sleeve 27 to the lever after adjustment. The sleeve 27 carries above the lever 17 a pinion 30, which gears with a rack u31 carried by an arm 32 extending from the carriage 51. The sleeve is provided with a milled nut 27', by which it may be turned in order to cause a lateral movement thereof in the direction of the length of the lever by reason of the engagement of the pinion with the rack, and to steady and properly direct such movement I extend the sleeve 27 and the bolt 13 upon which said sleeveis mounted upward through a slot formed in the end of the arm 32', the head of the bolt being provided with a washer 34, which washer and bolt-head move between the upper face 0f the arm 32and a smoothed surface 35 of the under face of the working-bed of the machine. 29 is a wing-nut mounted upon the screwthreaded lower end of the bolt 13, and serving, when tightened against the milled nut 27, to keep the parts in the position to which they are adjusted. Therefore, in order to alter the axis of oscillation ofthe lever 17 it suffices-the screw 2G being slackened-to unscrew the wing-nut 29, which will allow the sleeves 27, and, in consequence, the pinion 30, to be turned by means of the milled nut 27. The rack 3l, with which gears the pinion 30, being fixed, it follows that in turning the pinion 30 the axis of oscillation 13 of the lever 17 will be moved and the amplitude of the movement of this lever varied accordingly.

The bars 20 of the feeder-slide are provided with four claws 24, and the presser-foot is disposed in such manner that its plate 34 follows the longitudinal movements of the said feeder-slide and the corset moved thereby for the purpose of avoiding frictional contact therewith, which would be inconvenient and likely to injure the corset. For this purpose there are employed two vertical guide-rods 35, supporting at their lower extremities an open frame 36, of which the two longitudinal sides form open guides 37, in which are mounted the anti-friction wheels 33, carried by supports 3D, formed integral with the plate 34. It will be readily seen that in consequence of this disposition the plate 34 will be able to move freely longitudinally, and in consequence'to follow smoothly all the longitudinal movements of the corset. In order io permit the work of fan-stitching to be followed the plate is cut away on each side of the passage of the needle and the openings covered with plates of crystal 40, held in slides formed on the plate 34.

Below the feeder 20 works the shuttle 5, held in its carrier by means of a vertical bearing-plate 41 fixed to a support 42, hinged at 43 to a frame fixed to the table of the machine. The position of the system formed by the pieces 41 and 42 is insured by a spring-bolt 43. It will therefore be understood that in order to disengage the shuttle it'sulces to draw the bolt 43', which permits the oscillation up and down of the support 42, and in consequence the removal of the bearing-plate IOC IIO

4l in such manner as to allow the shuttle to be withdrawn. position longitudinally by means of a bolt and nut 44, which passes through a slot 45 in the support 42.

In order to cause the lateral movements of the slide 2O carrying the feeders, which cause the stitches 2 to 3, 4 to 5, 6 to 7, the., to be formed, the movable carriage 51 is connected With the slide in the manner shortly to be described, and is operated upon by whatI term a reversible driver -that is, an operating mechanism for moving the carriage which is adapted to move in reverse directions to cause the carriage to be reciprocated in opposite directions. This mechanism is illustrated in Figs. 6, 7, l5, I6, and 17, wherein 46 and 47 represent ratchet-wheels, the teeth of which incline in opposite directions in order to effect the movement of the corset either to the right or left, accordingto the direction -of the stitch. The said ratchet-Wheels are mounted upon a vertical axis 48 fixed under the table of the machine and carrying apin ion 49, Which receives movement from the ratchets 46 and 47, to which it is fixed. The pinion 49 gears with a rack. 50, fixed upon the drivin g-carriage 5l, which is guided in ,its supports 52 and 53, xed underneath the table of the machine.

The carriage 5l is provided with a horizontal arm 52, Which is connected by a rod 55 with one of the slides 22, and is also provided with a lug 54, which bears against the end'of the other slide 22. It will therefore bevseen that the carriage 5l hasimparted to ita movement to the right or left of the slides 22; the claw-carrier 20, and therefore the corset, Will participate in the same movement, which is the necessary transverse movement for the passage from one longitudinal stitch to another, Which determines the spread of the threads in the fan.

Themovementof the ratchet-wheels 46 to 47 is operated atthe desired moment bypawls 56 and 57, mounted one above the other, so as to be capable of sliding upon a lever 58, oscillating upon theaxis 48 of the ratchetwheels 46 and 47. The oscillatory movement of the lever, and therefore that of the pawls 56 and 57, is produced by the cam 5 9, in the groove 59 of which is guided a roller 60, carried by the lever 58. The cam" 59 is keyed upon a shaft 60', parallel to the driving-shaft, and the movement is transmitted by two toothed wheels 6l and 62, which are in the re-A lation of one to two in size. The heads of the pawls 56 and 57 terminate in yokes 63, within which act upon each, respectively, the cams 64 and 65, keyed upon an axis 66,1ixed underneath the table, and which can-be turned by means of a handle 67. Upon the axis 66, above the heads of the pawls 56 and 57, is

keyed a stop-wheel 68, which, combined with The piece 4l is adjustable in gagement of one of the pawls 56 or 57 and to the engagement of the other. The medium position of the stop-disk 68, Figs. 7, 7"", V15, and i7, corresponds to the disengaged 'position of the two pawls 56 and 57'-that is to say, to the posit-ion of repose of the ratchets 46 and 47. Two springs'70 and 7l actA respectively upon each pawl 56 and 57 in order to assure their engagement with their respective ratchet-wheels when either of them is in a working position according to the direction of the movement.

The movement of the carriage 5l in one direction or the other also operates one-half of a clutch 72 in such manner that its disengagement may take place just at the moment when the* fan-stitching is terminated. (See Figs. 6 and 9.) For this purpose an oscillating lever 73, connected with the carriage 5l by means of a link 74, is formed with a boss 75, carrying two lever-arms 76 and 77.

Vhen the carriage 5l, under the action of the pinion 49, gearing with the rack 50, moves toward the needle it is the leverarm 77, which, by the intervention of the link 77 and the bent lever 78 80, transmits the movement to the knocking-off bar 79 by the lever-arm 8() acting upon a friction-pulley 80. The bar 79 is connected by means of a slot to the knocking-off lever 8l, which is hinged'at 82 and which by a fork 83 acts upon the half of the clutch 72. Vhen the movement of the c'arvriage 5l takes place in the opposite direction-that is to say, away from the needleit is the lever-arm 76 Which by the roller 85 acts directly upon the bar 79 to operate the ria-ge 5l to its point of departure by means of the handle 7'6after each operation of fan-stitching. This doublev disengagement mechanism, Which thus controls the operation in each direction, either right or left, is adjusted so that the half of the clutch. 7 2 leaves the driving-pulley 72 at once after the execution of the last stitch of each fan is completed.

The number of threads in a fan will varyin dierent cases. I have combined my mech-v anism in such manner that it can lend itself to these variations. For a small number of threads the movement of the carriage 5l is naturally less 'than for a greater number. I regulate, therefore, the depth of engagement of the clutch according to the number of stitches by means of the slide or slot 88', in which the pivot 88, working the lever 8l, can vary its position. Moreover, the cam l2 can be readily dismounted, being simply fixed by the screws I4 and i4. I employ, therefore, a'

IOO

ITO

series ofcams, of which theworking-grooves are cut so as only to producea number of the carriage in any suitable manner, as with the arm 5l thereof, by means of tlieflinlc or rod 87. This `indicator extends upward sliding carriage connected with the slide, a rack and pinion for moving the carriage, the ratchet-Wheels having' teeth inclined in opposite directions connected to rotate the said.

provided with an operating-handle, substan-v tially as described.

9. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with the stitch forming mechanism, the presser foot or plate, and the slide carrying the feeders free to be moved laterally,` of a sliding carriage connected with the slide, the rack and pinion by which the carriage is moved, the ratchet-wheels 4:6 47, having teeth inclinedin opposite directions connected to rotate said pinion, the vibrating lever 58, a cam by which the lever is vibrated, the pawls 56 57, which engage with the said ratchet-wheels respectively, supported upon said lever, on which they are free to slide toward and from the ratchet-wheels, and each provided with a yoke (53, the springs which tend to move the pawls into engagement with the ratchet-wheels, and the cams engaging with the said yokes for regulating the position of the pawls in respect to their ratchet-wheels, substantially as set forth.

l0. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with themain driving-shaft, the stitch-forniing mechanism, the presser-foot, and the slide carrying the feeders, of a sliding carriage connected with the said slide, a feeding mechanism for the carriage by which it is moved in either direction, a clutch on the main driving-shaft, a clutch-shifter, and the independent connections between the sliding carriage and the clutch-shifter, whereby the latter is operated when the sliding carriage reaches the end of its movement whichever direction it be moved, substantially as set forth.

Il. In a sewing-machine, the combination,

with the main driving-shaft 3, the stitch-forniing mechanism, the presser foot or plate, and the feeder-slide, of the lsliding carriageconnected with the feeder-slide, the clutch 72,

-the clutch-shifter having two contacts 80 S5,

the lever 76, connected with the sliding carriage, and arranged to bear against the contact 85, and move the clutch-shifterwhen the carriage moves in one direction, and the train of levers 73, 77, 7 8, and 80, connected with the carriage and adapted to bear upon the contact SO', and move the shifter when the carriage moves in the opposite direction, substantially as set forth.

12. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with the main drivin g-shaft 3, the stitch-forining mechanism, the presser plate or foot, and the feeder-slide, of the sliding carriage connected with the feeder-slide, the clutch 72 on the main driving-shaft, the sliding bar 79, connected with the sliding carriage and provided With a slot 8S', the clutch-shiftin g lever, and the block carrying the pivot-pin 88, which enters the slot S8', and connects the said sliding bar and the lever, adjustable in' Aa slot in the lever, substantially as set forth.

'13. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with the stitch forming mechanism, the presser-foot, the feeder-slide, and the sliding carriage connected therewith to move the same, of an indicator 86, extending above the bed-plate of the machine, a connecting-bar between the said indicator and the sliding carriage, whereby the two are caused to move together, and a handle for moving both the said indicator and the sliding carriage, whereby the parts may be brought to the proper position for starting, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof l have hereunto subscribed my hand in the presence ofV the two subscribing witnesses.

' PIERRE ALEXANDRE DARRACQ.

Witnesses:

LoUIs TULLIGER, J EAN RoBELEr. 

